This topic contains 77 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by 
Christian 8 years ago.
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P.S. Flavio I´ve found a great way to desolder them, I just did 2 and it took me about 10 minutes altogether.
Like we said, put iron on 450° and make sure to only desolder when the iron has 450°. The thing is that when desoldering the fat pins, the heat gets absorbed very quickly and you have to wait a bit before continuing.
Start out with adding fresh tin, and when it´s liquid, remove it with the pump immediately. Repeat this (adding tin, removing with pump), until all tin is gone. I did not need to use the wick, and it was 100 times easier than the first encoder I´ve tried (from the same machine).
At the very end if there is only a tiny bit of tin holding the pin, apply some pressure to the pin with the iron until it let´s go of the tinned border and is free floating.This even worked with the fat pins at the side, just a little bit more difficult.
Good luck!
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This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month ago by Christian.
Hi Christian.
I tried your suggestion (not that I didn’t try it before, but anyway…): I might have to think that my desoldering pump is not sucking enough! I got the thin pins almost completely desoldered, but there’s still a very thin solder, holding the part to the PCB. No way for the thick pins… tin is flowing into the “hole” underneath and there seems to be no way to get it out there with the pump.
I’ll wait for soldering wick getting delivered, then I’ll try again.I now remember a friend of mine, telling me that “desoldering is way more difficult than soldering”!
BR,
F.i got a heated pump from Ebay. This is a nice solution.
I needed it to desolder some big knobs in a tb 303 , that was a Horror with a normal Iron, but with this ist cool. This pump cost 5-10 € in ebay. If you do a lot of Diy ist worth to buy it !here is my Version : http://www.ebay.de/itm/NEU-Entlotsauger-Lotsauger-Lotpumpe-Entlotpumpe-/300693889841?hash=item4602c0a331:g:oNgAAOxynwlTdfpt
It took me 30 minutes to repair.
I tryed it christians way first. its god but i had mure luck with the my heated pump.i just can say, this repair is not for diy beginners.
Im doing this since a long time and 2 tricky things.
Open the LED ring, here you must be very patient.
Dont bend it to strong the plastic lock can break easyly.
And also the pcb has very fine pcb traces, dont melt them with the very warm solder iron.mine works now again like a charm.
the encoders from christian feel more expensive and better than the original encoders
thanks christian
now i can upload the new firmware
Hi Citric, thanks for your reply.
Indeed that pump-soldering-iron doesn’t cost much – do you think it’s worth?
I’m actually starting to do some DIY (I ordered my first DIY kit yesterday – ARPIE MIDI arpeggiator)…BR,
Flavio.yes the pump is worth it. also if you have to remove more than one encoder.
also if you do a lot of diy.
so…its up to you
That pump looks good. Mine has a heat resistant plastic sleeve that aids getting a decent seal for solder slurping.
Good luck on the Arpie. Excellent first build. I’ve got two connected up to the same chord track on the Zaquencer. Plays very nicely and is a quick route to some added depth in your sequences
Hi Tommy – thanks for your reply.
I ordered that pump as well, together with desoldering wick. I think now it will need only skills improvement on my side, because the tools are ok ARPIE is a nice device, thanks for wishing me good luck. I hope I’ll be doing it right at first try!
F.Its the eighth or nine time that’s the problem. There was me thinking I was the solder sorcerer but then realised I’d put in a capacitor the wrong way round.
Fear is not the mind killer, the little death, its complacency!
PS remember to tin your tips!
I succeeded (finally) with the help of solder wick!
I can confirm that the parts ordered from TRIPLEX (Germany) are exactly the same push-encoders as the original. Check it here:
F.
Congratulations! Good to hear that you´ve succeeded with the replacement. Thanks for posting back here, now we know 2 reliable sources for the replacement push encoders. Great!
May I suggest to eventually do a “group order”? I think at least TRPILEX could be dealt with…
F.
Hi ppl!
Just for the sake of completeness, here the pictures of the two potentiometers I got from TRIPLEX.
On the left, the “normal” ones.
On the right, the “push-encoders”.
Thank you contributors for this information.
And cheers!
indeed thanks!
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This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month ago by
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