This topic contains 77 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by 
Christian 8 years ago.
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im from germany. i was on the general homepage from behringer i selected germany in the dropdown. But the mail came from UK i guess. But they want Euro on a german Account
That’s really interesting. Behringer (Switzerland I believe, don’t remember exactly), told me that they do not sell parts to individuals…
Just keep us informed!
THanks,
F.Behringer is Bullshit, first they gaved. me a price. nor whe i want to place my order they say, i cant im not an offical Repair center.. what a kind of asholes. i will contact Thomann and ask for the part. or i wait for a solution from here ;(
Hi Citric,
that’s what I was presuming in my previous post: Behringer is not selling to individuals :-/
If you get some help from Thomann, please inform here as well. I will get my replacement items this weekend, will try to get them replaced next week and would report back!
F.Ok. i got an awnser from Thomann, they ordered me a Pushencoder.
The Last one at Stock at the Moment
13,50€ plus shipment ,not cheap but the original one.
I take this. But Keep us informed if the others work well.They didn´t gave me the part number , b
ut the People at spare part department at thomann are verry nice. They will help.Hi Citric!
Damn, that’s waaaaayyyy too much for ONE SINGLE push-encoder!!! I wouldn’t have bought it…Anyway: I’m a NOOB when it comes to de-soldering, thus I’m stuck right now because of missing tools to complete the desoldering process.
Nevertheless, the push-encoders are for sure long enough, this is the first thing I could verify.
I hope I’ll get them replaced as soon as possible, to give feedback here as well.BR,
F.Hi guys,
thanks for the updates.
Yes the desoldering is not easy. I recently managed to do it with a desoldering pump:
http://www.reichelt.de/Entloetpumpen-litze/ENTL-TPUMPE/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=7395&GROUPID=556&artnr=ENTL%C3%96TPUMPEAlso my soldering iron goes up to 450° Celsius which really helps.
Still it was not easy, but eventually manageable…Hi Christian,
I am also using a desoldering pump – but still I’m not getting it done. Did you really have to power up your soldering iron up to 450° C?
I want to try with soldering wick (Lötlitze) but I can’t find a pricey “Swisstone” one. That’s really the best one, but shipping costs are quite heavy… :-/Would you suggest me to retry with 450° C ?
F.
Hi Flavio,
yes, I would recommend setting the iron to 450°. At lease it´s how I learned to do it at my apprenticeship as a TV technician back in the day.
In my experience it´s only critical if you apply this heat (longer) to semiconductors, but not to mechanical elements like the rotaries.
I´m not an expert on this anymore though, so if you´re unsure I recommend reading around at the different forums, there is lots of advice there…I always desolder with 450° and did not have any problems with it so far, that much I can say.
I on the other hand only worked with soldering wick the last 15 years, but with the encoders I could only succeed with the pump. Here´s another tip: try adding a little bit of new soldering tin to the pin, it will refresh the existing tin, making it easier to get it in a fluid state and removed.
Hi guys,
on another note, I finally just bit the bullet and ordered some of the (hopefully) right encoders from Mouser.com. High quality replacements from Bourns with a push function. If they are really the right ones I will let you know. I´m thinking about offering them through here anyway, as the 20 Euro shipping costs from Mouser are quite steep for small quantities.Hi Christian,
thanks for your suggestions – I’ll try another run on the rotary pot in the next days.
My aim is to have it “fall out” without having me to need to apply some kind of force…BTW: I’m confident for the TRIPLEX push-encoders, thus I think that could cost less than Mouser’s…
I’ll let you know!
F.OK… no luck so far only with the desoldering pump
I think I need to get some soldering wick before I will be able to successfully remove that pot…
F.Have you already tried adding a bit of new tin? I know it´s counterintuitive, because I was so happy about every it of tin I was able to remove, but in the end it really helped. The new one goes off again very easily and takes away the old tin with it.
Hi Christian,
yes I tried it on one pin and it worked “almost” perfect: the fact is, that some tin is still holding that pin :-/
And, most worse: the two side “pins” (don’t know how to call them, they’re only here to fit the potentiomenter) are almost impossible to get all tin removed! :-/
F.Hi guys,
I´ve received the encoders from Mouser.com and they are finally the right ones:
Top is original, bottom is Bourns PEC12R-4030F-S0024
That is the same type, not rasterized, 24 ppr, with push function.I have already tried them in the BCR and they work great. The physical resistance is a little lower in the Bourns (it´s easier to rotate), which in my opinion is great and feels like higher quality actually. The encoders in my old BCR from 2004 feel the same way.
I have ordered quite a few of those and will sell them for 3 Euro per piece+shipping. I´m thinking of ways to incorporate it into the store, in the meantime just PM me if you´re interested or write to support@zaqaudio.com
Cheers!
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